PRODUCT CARE

Check our service manuals below on how to best care for your gear. Just like your bike, the better your care for it the longer it will last and the more and more you will love it.

For more specific details on how to best care for your item, tap the 'Look after Me' section on our product pages.

Helmets

These luxurious brain buckets are responsible for keeping your beautiful face in tact in the worst case scenario.
It's your crown so treat it like one!

• The opening is quite closed off to minimise wind entry so to put them on with ease, hold the straps and roll onto your head from the forehead rather than pulling straight down.

• Full face helmet visors come with an anti-fog inner layer so be aware and don’t remove that when you are removing the plastic protector from the front of the visor.

• If you are swapping visors, please always ensure the CNC screws are screwed back on nice and tight, but not so tight you can’t get them off again. Put it up and down a few times after change over to check it’s securely fastened.

• The leather trim can leave a mark on the visor if left down so retain the foam insert to place between the leather and visor when stored or always leave the visor up so it doesn’t rub.

Alternatively, we offer the Helmet Cleaning Kit which includes cleanser, odour eliminator and leather cleaner with a microfibre cloth.

• When cleaning, only use warm water and neutral soap. Never use window cleaning products. In order to keep all parts of the helmets in their best condition, use a wet cloth to clean the chinstrap and other relevant areas
• Never apply paints, sticker, petrol or other chemical solvents to the helmet and visor
• For the cleaning of the matte helmet surfaces - usually water and neutral soap will suffice for cleaning the surface but for more stubborn stains cleaning alcohol and evenly applied pressure from a micro fibre cloth is quite effective
• For the cleaning of the glossy helmet surfaces - water and neutral soap with a micro fibre cloth will suffice. For a good polish you can use car wax as all Hedon helmets are painted with the same painting and techniques of automobilesFor visor maintenance - clean with soapy water. DO NOT use any solvents. Note that with each and every clean it will affect the fog and scratch resistant on the visorFor hardware maintenance - if you are tired of the oxidised look of some of the hardware on your helmet you can polish them with a mixture of lemon and salt and gently rub all over the surfaces of the hardware. For the Epicurist/Heroine screws, make sure to remove the screws from the helmet for polishing and to make sure they are secured correctly and firmly back on the helmet after

• Clean with soapy water.
• DO NOT use any solvents.
• Note that with each and every clean it will affect the fog and scratch resistant on the visor.

Leather

Leather is an extremely durable material that is naturally resistant to dirt; however, over time it will get dirty. Check our tips & tricks below to get the most out of your hide.

To keep vibrant & clean, we recommend treating with a leather protector before first use to keep in great condition for years to come. You can continuing this process anytime the leather starts to look worn or dirty.

If you get stuck in the rain and your leathers get wet, gently wipe away any excess water to avoid colour running and let the item air dry.

Hot tip: before applying treatment to the leather, let the leather warm up in some sunlight to open the pores before applying.

Leather will naturally soften and adjust to your hand, they'll just keep looking better with age, but be sure to look after that hide!

To keep your gloves vibrant & clean, we recommend treating with a leather protector before first use to keep in great condition for years to come. You can continuing this process anytime the leather starts to look worn or dirty.
If you get stuck in the rain and your gloves get wet, gently wipe away any excess water to avoid colour running and let the item air dry.


Hot tip: before applying treatment to the leather, let your gloves warm up in the sunlight to open the pores before applying.

A good pair of leather boots are just like learning to ride a motorcycle; a bit hard to get on at first, but easier with time.

Until the leather softens we recommend using a shoe horn to put the boots on. New leather is stiff, but once on, they should fit perfectly. As the leather softens, they will be easier to get on with every wear.

To keep your boots vibrant & clean, we recommend treating with a leather protector before first use to keep in great condition for years to come. You can continuing this process anytime the leather starts to look worn or dirty.

Trip Machine bags & luggage have been treated to protect from the harshness of the external world. A little bit of care is all you needs to give your purchase years of service.
Here's a few tips to pamper it...

Keep it clean:
Always touch the product with clean hands/gloves. If you are using an old pair of gloves, clean them thoroughly before the first time.

Protection from water:
The water repellant treatment will protect the product to a good degree. Riding in the rain is safe, however please cover the product if it's exposed to heavy water flow like washing your bike. It's advisable to use one layer of water resistant coat after the product has ben in a few rains or at least once every 6 months.

Cleaning the product:
Use a cotton cloth for cleaning. You may want to use a mild leather cleaner from time to time.

Suede & Nubuck

Both suede and nubuck are in fact leather, they have just been produced differently which results in the different textures.
However the soft fuzzy texture of both of these materials require a small amount of TLC to ensure they stay in great condition.

Suede is leather that’s been turned inside out giving a soft napped, velvet like surface. Without that durable layer of exterior skin, suede is more susceptible to moisture and light damage, so caring for your jacket can increase its life and ensure you get the most from your investment.

We recommend picking up a waterproofing and stain-resistant spray from your local shoe or leather store and applying it before first use.

Tips:
• Use a multi-purpose suede brush to remove loose dirt.
• Blot, never rub.
• For any stains use a suede specific cleaner then leave to dry and brush with a clean suede brush.
• Spray with specific suede proof to waterproof once or twice a year.
• Avoid extreme wet weather conditions.

Nubuck is a top-grain leather that has been buffed to create a velvety suede like outer surface. This particular material is more durable and typically higher quality than suede however it is more susceptible to absorb dirt.
We recommend picking up a waterproofing and stain-resistant spray from your local shoe or leather store and applying it before first use.

Tips:
• Use a multi-purpose suede brush to remove loose dirt.
• Blot, never rub.
• For any stains use a suede/nubuck specific cleaner then leave to dry and brush with a clean suede brush.
•Spray with specific nubuck/suede proof to waterproof once or twice a year.

Raw Selvedge Denim

Maybe 10% of jeans are raw, meaning the denim has not been washed, distressed, or treated in any way after the dying and weaving process. Raw jeans will feel more rigid and crisp at first, after a few rides the denim softens as it starts to mold to your shape. As you break in raw denim it will crease, fade and shape to your body, becoming a perfectly fitted second skin completely unique to you.

Selvedge or "self-edge" denim gets its name from the tightly woven edge of the denim itself that won't unravel. Selvedge jeans are more durable and the selvedge stripe is a sign of the denim's higher quality.

• Break them in – often raw denim can be restricting at first but they will soften with wear in the areas you need more room and be more form fitting where you need less.

• Fabric will naturally soften and fade over time, this is the beautify of raw fabric.

• When it comes to washing raw denim, the consensus is, less is more. Wear your jeans often; wash when needed. 
It’s not unusual for raw jeans to go 4-6 months between washes.

• Hand wash gently, inside out, in a tub of cool water, with “dark” detergent made to wash colours and prevent dye loss.
Though cold water is always recommended, warm water can be used if you want more shrinkage.

• Always hang dry inside out.

Firstly, you will notice how rigid and unforgiving this denim feels. But don’t worry, this will soften and it won’t be long before your pants look and feel like an extension of you.

• Wear often – This will not only soften the denim, but wearing the jeans will create the distress marks caused by your individual use and fit. This is what makes raw denim special. As you naturally abrade the indigo, the jeans begin to form a one of a kind look exclusive to you.

• Don’t wash for the first 6 months – True raw denim connoisseurs will tell you washing any sooner is a sin. Give your jeans time to soften up and create their unique look.  

Wash every 3-4months following these steps:

1. Fill bath: Fill a bath with cool or lukewarm water.
2. Add soap: Add a weak-strength soap (a denim wash is preferred but soap will be fine).
3. Wash: Lay the pants out in the bathtub and agitate underwater for a few minutes.
4. Soak: Ensuring all parts of the jeans are submerged let sit for 30-45 minutes.
5. Drain: Agitate one more time and then drain bath.
6. Rinse: Refill with fresh water and let sit a further 5-10 minutes.
7. Dry: Hang wet pants up to dry.

Armoured Textile Clothing

Care instructions can generally be found on the garment label. Some items can be cold hand washed or spot cleaned.

General rule of thumb:
• If hand washing, armour does not need to be removed.
• If machine washing, use a gentle cycle only and remove all armour.